The winter months are especially harsh in Korea. As the cold sets in, the lush colours of carefully manicured shrubs and beautiful flowerbeds are replaced by shades of grey, brown and black. The days become short and the nights, long and cold. Life and light leave at the same time, inviting gardens to show a different side to their warm, summer selves.

Korea’s Garden of Morning Calm (아침고요수목원) has the fortune of having caretakers, who perhaps see themselves as purveyors of 마법mabeop (magic). They put on their 마법사mabeopsa (wizard) hats and transformed the garden into a phantasmagoria, set against the impending backdrop of Gapyeong’s white winter.

Taking iridescent lights of every colour, they weave them along undulating paths and quaint bridges, spreading light into shadows that would otherwise deepen in the wake of a departing Sun. A field morphs into a cobalt sea, complete with kissing pink dolphins…a wisteria lane turns into a fairytale portal that brings you to Cinderella’s horse-drawn pumpkin carriage…you wander into a giant leaf forest and suddenly come upon a secret clearing within, where a 요정yojeong (fairy) and her friends live in gingerbread houses. You look up, and lo and behold, richly hued umbrellas float in the air above, ready to collect all manners of dew and snow. Candy-coloured balls light up the path to the Sunken Garden, which holds court for the magical realm. All who wander into it are lost yet enthralled, and The Garden of Morning Calm Light Festival is born.

Looking back, we were so lucky to have witnessed this magic during our winter trip to Korea last December. Fans of Christmas light-ups (who isn’t!), we knew the garden was a must-visit for us during our side-trip to the Gapyeong district outside of Seoul, alongside Nami island and Petite France village. We planned an overnight stay in Gapyeong from 4 – 5 Dec and arrived at the Garden a day early, in the evening before the opening of the Festival on 5 Dec. But Fate was kind to us – the wizards of the Garden were on task and wanted to test the light transformation at sunset, ahead of opening evening. So what we bemoaned as sloppy planning turned into a gleeful blessing, as we delighted in having the Garden almost to ourselves. (Apparently, the Garden can get very crowded during the Festival months.) Gamsahamnida for a magical evening!

Trip-bits

1.When to Visit:

• The Light Festival usually starts in early December and lasts till March of the following year. Visit their official website here to know the exact opening day.
• Garden visiting hours extend from sunset to 9 pm (11 pm on Saturdays). We recommend arriving before sunset, so you can catch the transformation from snow-white day to night.
• Combine your visit to the Festival with Gapyeong attractions like Gangchon Rail Park, Nami Island and Petite France village. Make the Garden the final stop on your itinerary.
• To enjoy the lights without the crowds, visit the Garden a day before the festival officially opens, like us. However, do take note that lighting may not be fully up and normal closing hours apply, so the time to enjoy the lights will be shorter.
• One key concern for independent travellers is figuring out the public transportation back from the Garden to Seoul or Gapyeong accommodation. Good news – the Gapyeong City Tour Bus extends its timing to service the Garden’s longer hours from opening day of the Festival, so you can still see the lights and catch the bus back to Cheongpyeong Station. The Gapyeong Inter-City bus services the Garden as well. Check bus timings at the Inter-City bus stop at the Garden’s entrance before the ticket office to weigh your options.

2) How to Get There:

From Seoul Station:

• Take Subway Line 4 [Oido-bound]. Alight one stop later at to Sinyongsan Subway Station Exit 5.
• Follow directions to ITX Yongsan Station (GyeongChun Line). Take the ITX train to Gapyeong Station.

From Seoul Myeongdong:

• Take Subway Line 4 at Myeongdong [Donggogae-bound] and transfer to Subway Line 1 at Dongdaemun Station [Cheongnyangni-bound].
• Alight at Cheongnyangni Subway Station exit 4 and transfer to ITX Cheongnyangni Station.
• Take the train to Gapyeong Station.

From Gapyeong station:

• Take the Gapyeong City Tour Bus outside the station. The City Tour Bus runs a circular route between Gapyeong and Cheongpyeong station covering all of Gapyeong attactions (the Garden is the last stop on its Route A.)
• The bus timetable and other transport information can be found in the blogpost by Prepare Travel Plans. From Day 1 of the Light Festival, the last Bus will depart the Garden later at 8.00 pm for Cheongpyeong Station.

Alternative transport:

• Rental Car (free parking at the Garden)
• Taxis – not readily available and expensive. Tip: Get the ticket office staff to call a taxi for you.